Wednesday, June 5, 2024

Tongan Sunsets

     How one gets to Tonga requires some planning and forethought, none of which was available at that time.  
        Spontaneity replaces creativity.  Fiji was in the midst of a coup.  Things were deteriorating rapidly. The only thing to do was get the hell out. 
       There is a wonderfully huge swimming pool that could lead you to stay in Fiji and swim.  GB thought flying might be more dangerous than walking on water so he chose sailing as the preferred method for his departure.   
      Actually he had been planning this ever since the Temple in Vancouver arranged this foray to rebuild the temple in Nadi.  He designed a backup plan before leaving. He wrote to the international hotel in Neiafu asking for a job.       
        What this was but an offer to come and work there painting the Hotel for free.   Not a favorite kind of work but it'll do in a pinch. The mercury in old paint is toxic and will kill you slowly.
    This was the pinch now. Bear started prowling the marinas for a sailing vessel to Tonga. The sun was setting when he got word about Don and Linda looking for a third hand, headed to Neiafu.
      Walking up to Don and introducing himself was almost too much being the shy retiring, shadowy dock leopard that this bear was. Somehow or other, they came to trust each other immensely. So Gb moved onto the boat that night. The next morning they all went to Customs and Don said "we are checking out." With a few rubber stamps, a few big bills (nothing but nothing speeds up the process like big bills) we were soon on the boat slipping the hawse headed for the briny deep of Tongan waters. Whoopeee!
        We had to dodge a hurricane by sheltering in one of the many inlets of an out island of Fiji. After a night of stormy weather, we pulled the hook and resumed our voyage to Neiafu.
        I was given the responsibility of standing the night watch which is normal for me. While I was so posted, I noticed a rather large light rising up on the horizon. Don told me to come get him at any sighting. 
      I personally thought this was a ship's light that was making its way toward us at an alarming rate.  I woke Don from a dead man sleep. He flashed up the ladder to look over this impending disaster. All he said was that is Venus and smiled.  Back to bed for that sailor. At least I now know what Venus rising looks like now.
       We made Neiafu with more problems. I had the earache problem though, with the Eustation tube plugged up so time was essential. We made friends with a schooner that held a warm greeting for us. The crew was a man and wife from the Seattle area who were certainly glad to see a fellow Seattle neighbor.  They were headed to a haul out where we just had come from to rebuild the transom that was rotting away. 
     They wanted as much information about the situation in Fiji. They told us of the wonderful diving on the vertical walls between the many islands and quays on the approach to Neiafu. Next time, was all we could come up with.  My ear was getting worse.
        I jumped ship and found the only MD in the islands.  This was a Catholic priest from Padua Spain. He takes a Boston Whaler to the outer islands as a water ambulance so its rare to catch him at his clinic.
    
  He agreed to treat my ear infection if I would build a back door stair case out of cinder block.  That was the easiest and most likable priest I've ever meant.  I soon was painting the International Hotel in Neiafu.
    Tonga is famous for its Flying Fox Bat which is the largest bat of the species. My friends took me to a special tree where most of these bats roost during the day. As the sun begins to set and darkness overtakes the islands,  these bats come alive.  They unfold their wings and go hunting for food. This is an amazing sight few venture to see.
     I  caught another ship to Nukualoafa just when things started to deteriorate with the owner. He demanded I pay my bar tab.  Trouble was I don't drink. Turns out I was working for free.  Not my idea of nice people. Kentucky has a history of thievery. I was glad to depart in my way.  They were none too happy. You meet criminals everywhere.

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